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Places to Eat in Devon and Cornwall

With such a wealth of food sources in Devon and Cornwall it’s little wonder there’s such a variety of fantastic places to eat. Here’s a selection, from cafes to top notch restaurants, all equally inspirational.

Snowdrops

Foodie Snippets From Devon and Cornwall for Lockdown 3

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A few snippets of news and suggestions for foodie treats to get us through to Spring.

The iconic Arundell Arms in Lifton has undergone an extensive refurbishment programme and is ready to open its doors as soon as government restrictions permit. New owners Simon Village and Arabella Monro have updated but retained the relaxed comfort of the hotel and added to its 20 miles of riverbanks on the Tamar. Steve Pidgeon is back at the helm as head chef and the new Deli is now open selling bread, pastries, cakes and fresh and larder produce (Monday-Wednesday 9-5, Thursday-Sunday 9-6).

Following its kitchen refit the Cornish Arms in Tavistock is back in business for takeaways during this lockdown. For this coming weekend (19th and 20th February) the menu includes half a grilled lobster with herb butter, chips and garlic mayo, maple-glazed smoked pork belly with wild garlic risotto and its ever-popular chicken curry with braised rice and toasted almonds. Top it off with a sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce or lemon posset with poached Yorkshire rhubarb. Book your timeslot by phoning 01822 612145.

Rick Stein is offering At Home menu boxes, available for delivery every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Each box has a starter, main and pudding for two and comes with cooking and plating instructions to finish off the dishes at home. Options include lobster, hake, sea bass boxes as well as steak, coq au Riesling and a vegetarian box.

Domea Favour opened its doors at Royal William Yard last autumn, having previously been operated by its owner, Nick Kittle, from a converted 1940s milk float and upcycled horsebox. Definitely worth checking out the website for his wondrous handmade chocolates, perfect for a lockdown treat or to send to absent friends and family. As well as delicious selection boxes he makes bespoke extravaganzas to order.

Although Rockfish takeaways are closed for the moment they’re offering a seafood box delivery nationwide. The turbot, scallop and smoked salmon boxes are available for delivery this month and are sent out every Friday. The fish is fresh from Brixham market and is frozen by Rockfish straightaway to get it to you in perfect condition. The box comes with cooking suggestions and a shopping list to create a three course dinner and snack for two.

Unfortunately the Tre, Pol & Pen farm shop near Launceston isn’t open for takeaways but it’s open Thursdays-Saturdays 9-5 for collection and delivery, giving customers the chance to enjoy grocery, deli, meat, dairy and bread from producers across the south west.

We Love Salcombe

Welcome to Salcombe, Devon – Sunny, Stylish and Sassy

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I’ve just had a nice mooch round Salcombe: sparkly sea, the bluest of skies and a Salcombe Dairy strawberry and cream ice cream – sometimes the simplest pleasures really are the best.

But, of course, Salcombe has plenty more to offer. Just try to visit before it gets too busy otherwise an amble becomes pretty difficult and the charm of the sunny, Mediterranean colours of this pretty port town can become a little jaded.

I love dresses in summer and Amelia’s Attic and Busby & Fox both have a fantastic range. Amelia’s Attic in particular had some beautiful kaftans in gloriously summery hues. I came away feeling disappointed I’d already got an outfit (my second at that) for my nephew’s wedding next month – I loved some of the glammy dresses in the store, teamed with one of the many unusual necklaces on offer. Busby & Fox (they have several stores in the South West) is a lovely, relaxed store, plenty of floaty, vintage-inspired dresses and woven bags.

For classic-but-with-a-twist bags and leather accessories don’t miss Will Bees Bespoke in their Island Street store and workshop. You’ll find beautifully crafted, handmade bags and accessories galore, each stamped with your initials while you wait.

As you’d expect, the home of Salcombe Dairy and Salcombe Gin has plenty of places to eat. We had a late light lunch in The Victoria Inn right in the centre of town. A traditional pub, slate floors, wooden tables, nice relaxed atmosphere and proper pub food done well. Other options include The Winking Prawn, always a good place to enjoy a plate of shellfish, sitting as it does on North Sands, or The Crab Shed on The Fish Quay, where seafood doesn’t come much fresher.

Of course, you can go all out and dine at the Salcombe Harbour Hotel’s Jetty restaurant with its outdoor terraces and outstanding views across the estuary.

Or else, maybe grab some delicious goodies from Salcombe Deli, head over to Sunny Cove and feel the turquoise water lap at your feet…

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Penzance and its Art

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I was introduced recently to The Hypatia Trust in Penzance, a charity which supports and promotes women’s achievements through research and documentation, exhibition and publications.

Named after Hypatia (pronounced hy-Pay-shuh), an eminent mathematician, astronomer and philosopher born in fourth-century Alexandria, Egypt, the Trust is home to the Hypatia Collection of books, artefacts and archives which give recognition to the achievements of women in all aspects of their lives (the library is pictured above). There’s a particular focus on the literary, artistic and scientific works of women and their contributions to society and culture.

It’s perhaps no surprise that the Trust is in Chapel Street, the heart of Penzance, a town which has a thriving literary as well as artistic scene. With the Newlyn School of Art just down the road, as well as the Newlyn Art Gallery plus The Exchange in town, alongside a wealth of galleries and exhibitions, the town’s artistic heritage is well known. What I hadn’t appreciated was the extent of the flourishing literary scene in the area but take a look at the Piccolina, the monthly poetry newsletter for Cornwall, and you’ll discover just how vibrant it is.

One artist whose work embraces both the written word and visual art is Diana Dixon, a poet and sculptor. Diana’s clay work is being exhibited at The Hypatia Trust with a ‘Mother and Child’ theme. The show is partly retrospective, partly introducing new work created over the winter. In the late ‘70s Diana met Henry Moore who spoke to her about recurring themes and the role of inspiration. “True to his teaching I have sculpted the human form, especially mother and child, for over forty years – with one major innovation: Henry Moore’s work has a very solid base, my work…has exploited the natural force of gravity.” When she was young Diana lost her balance on a cliff top and fell in to the sea and “the sensation of falling between one element to another has prevailed” through her work.

Diana has also been writing poetry almost her entire life. When she moved to Penzance over twenty years ago she started to perform her work and for the last couple of years she has focused on local readings and performance. She describes her work as reflecting the “warp and weft of living. Sometimes they are sad and painful, often they are humorous. Always they seek our vulnerability and mortality – hopefully with a gentle ‘eye’ – whilst I explore the themes of loss, love, illness and death”.

You can see Diana’s work at The Hypatia Trust from 11th May to 14th June. Well worth a visit.

And if you need somewhere to stay try the Chapel House just down the road at the end of Chapel Street. Set in a beautiful Georgian building the hotel has six rooms, some with views out to sea. Take a stroll along the seafront and through the exotic Morrab Gardens, maybe take in the Exchange and stop off for a bite to eat at the nearby Mermaid Alley.

Harlyn House

What’s New for Hotels and Restaurants in Devon and Cornwall in 2019

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Some exciting hotel and restaurant changes to look out for in 2019.

The Pig Hotel chain has bought the Grade II-listed Harlyn House near Padstow, Cornwall. This 15th-century house (pictured above) has gorgeous views of Constantine Bay and, all being well, will open its doors in the autumn/winter of this year. Set in five acres and with a walled garden it promises to be a perfect spot for the hotel chain for whom it’s all about good food from its own gardens and easy, relaxed glamour. This will be the second ‘piglet’ in the region, joining The Pig at Combe near Honiton, east Devon.

Gara Rock’s ‘Out of the Ordinary’ suites should be opening around March. The hotel near Salcombe underwent a big revamp in 2018 and its one-of-a-kind Secret Suite, Signal House and Penthouse (sleeping 2, 4 and 6 respectively) promise something quite special. Bookings are being taken for later in the year.

Fowey and Padstow will see completion of work on two landmark hotels this year. The Metropole at Padstow and The Fowey Hotel were bought by the Harbour group of hotels last year and will join the group’s existing hotels at Salcombe, Sidmouth and St Ives. The public areas of the hotels have been refurnished and work on the rooms should be completed in April.

Crocadon Farm at St Mellion is a 120-acre organic farm at St Mellion, Cornwall and the farmhouse is let for holidays. The farm is being taken on by Dan Cox, who used to be head chef at the Michelin-starred Fera restaurant at Claridges Hotel, London with the help of Sean O’Neill of the Modern Salad Grower whose organic farm is near Looe and who already supplies a number of top restaurants and hotels in the region.

Food And Wine

Foodie Goings-On in Devon and Cornwall

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I just thought I’d let you in on some foodie events coming up in the next few weeks in Devon and Cornwall.

The exquisite Glazebrook House Hotel at South Brent (which I’ve written about previously in this Journal) is hosting a special Pol Roger Champagne Evening on Thursday 24th May. Guests will be treated to an evening of food and bubbly with a four-course menu paired with fine Pol Roger champagnes. The hotel is a finalist in the Boutique/Guest Accommodation category of the Visit England tourist awards and last year won Outstanding Business of the Year and Hotel of the Year at the English Riviera And South Devon Tourism and Hospitality Awards.

A similar event to celebrate English Wine Week is being held at Buckfastleigh on 1st June with Sharpham Wines and Devon Distillery providing a selection of wines to complement an eight-course seasonal supper cooked by Riverfood Field Kitchen.

May sees the start of the Exeter Street Food Market which takes place on various Thursday evenings until September at the Quayside and the Piazza Terracina. Enjoy street food from across the globe, including Spanish, Vietnamese, African, Caribbean and Egyptian, produced from locally sourced fresh produce. It all kicks off tomorrow, Thursday 17th May, at Piazza Terracina from 4.30 until 9.30.

River Cottage at Axminster is holding its Spring Food Fair on the weekend of 26th/27th May. A perfect day out for families with workshops, talks and live music as well as the all-important artisan food stalls and chef demos.

If the River Cottage fair doesn’t quite fill you up you can move on to the Dartington Food Fair which is on the same weekend, on the 27th and 28th May. Again, plenty of demos and wonderful food stalls showcasing the best that Devon has to offer.

And finally, if simply watching Harry marry Meghan on your TV at home seems a bit low-key then head to the Headland Hotel at Fistral Beach for a Royal Afternoon Tea. Celebrations start at 11.30 with the wedding being shown on a big screen and tea being served from 2.30.

Talland Bay Hotel

Talland Bay Hotel, Cornwall

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Congratulations to Debbie in Plymouth who correctly identified Talland Bay Hotel in the photo competition!

The hotel has an array of sculptures in its garden which has the perfect backdrop in the spectacular views across the bay. In the photo you can see one of the hotel’s gorgeous wire fairies perched on the table. It’s the work of Derek Kinzett who has been creating life-size figurative wire sculptures since 2007, producing many beautiful fairies and mythological creatures as well as everyday people. Smaller sculptures can be bought at the Fowey River Gallery – this is where I first came across these intricate works of art and couldn’t resist a mermaid which now happily graces my kitchen.

Inside, the hotel has plenty of interesting art adorning its walls which complements the interesting design and quirky touches throughout. We just stopped in for a delicious light lunch last month and the staff were extremely friendly and professional. It’s dog friendly and the guests were a mix of regulars (some booking their next stay) and first-timers, staying in individually designed bedrooms or garden suites. I’d have been very happy to arrive here after a long journey – a slice of Cornish heaven beside the sea.

Breakfast

Great brunches in Devon and Cornwall

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So you’ve survived the first few days back at work after New Year, the weekend is looming and a bit of comfort is needed to see off the January gloom. A hearty brunch is called for.

I rather like The Dock in Plymouth. It’s a family-run restaurant at King Point Marina just next to the Brittany Ferries terminal. It has great views across the marina and the sea really does sparkle on a sunny day. Enjoy the views from one of the balconies – in the right weather you can feel as though you’re in the Mediterranean (even if it is cold outside), lusting over the yachts outside.  I had a very good veggie breakfast but was considering a ‘pudding’ when I saw a pancake arrive heaped with red berries – looked great. Always advisable to book.

In the South Hams you’d be hard pressed to beat Café Alf Resco in Dartmouth. This is a really quirky place with bags of character. Can be a bit of a squeeze when it’s busy (most of the time) but is definitely a place to linger with the Sunday papers. They don’t take bookings so you may have to wait for a table. They have an undercover area outside and inside is terrifically atmospheric with its vaulted open kitchen. Busy and excellent food.

A slightly more limited menu but very welcoming is Toast in Honiton. If you’re like me and like great hulking slices of toast and marmite then I think you’ll enjoy this café on the main road going up through town. A warm, inviting interior welcomes you or you can wander on through to the courtyard garden. Either way you’ll enjoy a good breakfast fix.

Venus Cafés are set in some of the most amazing beach locations in the South West. This small chain of cafes has a very strong sustainability ethos and breakfast will start off your day at just the right pace. You’ll find them at Blackpool Sands, Bigbury and East Portlemouth all in the South Hams (as well as at the Shops at Dartington) and Watergate Bay and Tolcarne on the North Cornwall coast. Sit back, enjoy the food and make the most of those terrific sea views.

Maybe January needn’t be that bad after all…..

Scarlet

Romantic Escapes in Devon and Cornwall

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Devon and Cornwall have some perfect places for couples seeking a romantic weekend away (or longer of course). Here are a few suggestions for that ideal escape.

The Scarlet is an eco hotel and spa at Mawgan Porth on the north coast of Cornwall and it’s for adults only. The location is stunning and is best experienced from a cliff-top hot tub or the natural, reed-filtered outdoor pool. You can’t escape the ocean; from the moment you walk in to the entrance your eye is drawn across the indoor pool to the sea beyond through a wall of windows, and from the spa you can walk down and join the coastal path. If that’s all a bit energetic, simply indulge yourself in one of the tented treatment rooms in the spa. Or else, simply make the most of your private space – all rooms have their own outside space, perfect for sitting back and listening to the draw of the ocean.

Glazebrook House Hotel is another hotel for grown-ups only, this time in South Brent on the southern edge of Dartmoor in Devon. Set in secluded gardens the inside of this boutique hotel has nine ‘sophisticated but fun’ rooms, romping through Alice in Wonderland with names such as White Rabbit, Tweedle Deez, Mad Hatter and Cheshire Cat, all a riot of creativity, curiosities and handcrafted furniture, and all luxurious and indulgent. It’s pretty eccentric but very stylish and isn’t at all what you’d expect from the outside. Sip cocktails before sitting down to an equally creative dinner.

StarBed Hideaways is glamping at its most luxurious – there really is no roughing it here. Halcyon and Aurora are the two StarBeds in question: bespoke shepherd huts complete with curvilinear glass ceilings, perfect for star gazing. They can be found on the Buckland Abbey estate on the western side of Dartmoor, set on a secluded hillside with wonderful views. Think kingsize bed, roll top bath, deluge shower, wood-burning stove, firepit and handcrafted oak interior and you’ll be along the right lines. Very intimate, ultimately romantic.

Padstow Townhouse in Cornwall has just six suites, all individually designed, with names such as Rhubarb & Custard, Marshmallow and Toffee Apple. The rooms are spacious, filled with vintage hand-finished furniture, velvet and leather sofas and luxurious bathrooms (Toffee Apple has a handmade oak and copper bath tub). Breakfast is at Rojano’s in the Square and you’re are able to book dinner at the Michelin-starred No.6 (both the hotel and restaurant are owned by Paul Ainsworth).

Black Moon is a one-bedroom holiday home set on Bamaluz Beach at St Ives where you’ll drift off to sleep to the sound of the sea. The interior is decadent and gorgeous, rich and striking, yet intimate and romantic. It even comes complete with its own cave. The open-plan living space has floor to ceiling doors opening up to the ocean. The bedroom (complete with superking bed) is separated from the living area by a sliding mirrored wall so you can make the most of the spectacular sea views without having to stir from your bed.

Coombeshead

Coombeshead: Foodie Heaven in Cornwall

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Coombeshead Farm describes itself simply as a farm, guesthouse, restaurant and bakery but, trust me, this is a farm, guesthouse, restaurant and bakery like no other. For anyone who is passionate about what they eat, you must head for this Cornish wonder in Lewannick near Launceston.

I wouldn’t describe it as a restaurant or B&B because the Coombeshead experience is so much more than that; it’s stepping in to a beautifully relaxed, informal, comfortable country house where you feel instantly at home. A bit of a cliché I know but it’s actually spot on here.

Drinks and nibbles are served in the sitting room and library of the main farmhouse where you mingle and chat with other guests: squishy sofas, big fireplaces, an excellent Tarquin’s gin cocktail with blackberry and nettle cordial, interesting company and delicious ‘nibbles’ (a cured plate, bean and mint tarts and pig’s head with apple ketchup for us). You’re looked after by Tom Adams, the very gifted chef behind Coombeshead, and his small team – and they make it seem effortless. It’s understated, it’s relaxed, it’s just part of the Coombeshead experience. You chat with them while drinks are being served and food being brought out of the adjoining kitchen.

The food is fresh and entirely seasonal. There’s no menu – you really do eat what is in season and what is available – and it works because you anticipate every course, plus it makes you a bit more adventurous, eating dishes you mayn’t choose otherwise.

Dinner is served in a barn across the courtyard from the main house, with guests on long tables. And what I hadn’t been expecting was a purpose-built kitchen in here, all open to the barn, so Tom and his team are in full view. And it makes fascinating viewing: the staff work quietly, efficiently and calmly; they know what they’re doing and they just get on with it. They chat to guests, some guests take photos, and Tim, one of the chefs, is on hand to answer any questions about the food and what each course is.

It’s a five-course taster menu starting off with their delicious homemade sourdough bread served with an array of tasters but especially good was the tomatoes with blackcurrant leaf oil and pork fat terrine with wild garlic capers. Pork appears quite a bit on the menu because a rare breed of pigs (Mangalicas) are farmed at Coombeshead. Also worth a particular mention was the grilled leek with smoked whey butter, lovage and buckwheat, the flavour of the lovage really coming through.

But it was all delicious. And I wasn’t the only one to think so, all the guests were equally enthused. I felt rather envious of those staying the night in one of the five rooms but may be that’s the excuse I need for a return visit.

Hawksfield

Enjoying Relaxed Shopping Under One Roof

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I can’t believe my thoughts are turning towards Christmas but inevitably they must. Although we’re spoilt for choice in the South West for small town shopping destinations selling such an abundance of one-off, eclectic, gorgeous hand-crafted gifts I do rather like relaxed shopping under one roof.

These are my favourites:

Hawksfield on the A39 near the Cornwall Showground between Padstow and Wadebridge in Cornwall. You can start off your trip here (and end it, why not?) with a coffee at Strong Adolfos which does a particularly good vegetarian breakfast. The Goose Shed sells original vintage interior pieces, unique designed furniture and reclaimed decorative items. Jo & Co is an interior and lifestyle shop selling furniture, interior accessories, tableware and cookware. Wadebridge Flowers always seem to have unusual, stylish plants and flowers on offer, as well as pottery, candles, baskets and small pieces of furniture. For foodies there’s BinTwo at the Arc. Although it’s quite small it’s packed to the gunnels with enticing food from suppliers both local and further afield, including Italy, Sweden and Sardinia.

Darts Farm at Topsham in Devon, an award-winning farm shop well known to many both far and wide. At its heart is the farm shop with its on-site butcher, fishmonger, baker, deli, cider maker and restaurant but it has evolved in to a whole lot more than this too. Stylish interiors and decorative items can be sourced at Orange Tree and Fired Earth and the Aga shop will be hosting ‘An Aga Christmas’ on 7th, 12th and 19th December.  And for the little ones at Christmas there’s a lovely selection of baby and children’s clothing as well as a toy section with high quality toys, games, soft toys and books.

The Shops at Dartington near Totnes, Devon, another shopping gem. There’s an extensive Food Shop selling mainly South West products, an inspiring Craft Centre which is a great, airy space for meandering, the well-equipped Kitchen Shop and a Fashion & Beauty store which always has some beautiful handmade jewellery. There’s a lot more besides as well as some foodie stops including the Venus Café, The Green Table and Bayards Kitchen.

And finally, and probably my favourite, Avon Mill at Loddiswell near Kingsbridge in the South Hams, Devon. This garden centre is tucked away and may be only small but it’s well worth hunting out. As well as the garden centre itself which sells some really interesting and unusual outdoor decorative items, MOSS Trading sells beautiful bouquets, candles and cashmere alongside natural products from Devon artisans and craftsmen. The Gallery showcases Devon arts and crafts complete with a jewellery workshop on site, all in a casual, light-filled space. And Threads Boutique is home to some great, quirky fashion. And of course, as you’d expect, there’s a café too with a deli, with a menu prepared in the kitchen from fresh, seasonal ingredients. From 14th to 29th October, as part of the South Hams Arts Forum’s Arts Trail there’ll be local arts and crafts on show in the greenhouse.

Happy shopping the relaxed way!

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